Paris: Paris Men’s Fashion Week started on Tuesday with a tsunami of new talent, but with shows also threatened by the protest movement “Yellow Vesten” that rocks France.
Dior moved his show from Saturday to Friday to avoid the weekly demonstrations of Paris that often become violent after the flagship shop on the Champs Elysees was looted after a Mars in November.
Several other luxury brands are the target of “yellow vests” activists, with a shell -like boutiques that have been regularly scribbled with graffiti that denounces the rich.
The Japanese label Sacai, Streetwear brand Andrea Crews, Namacheko and the American Thom Browne have also planned their Saturday shows to prevent problems of the populist street movement.
But it is the boiling anger of fashion critics who will fear retired superster designer Hedi Slimane, after they had given his first outing for Celine a kick in October.
Slimane was accused of defeating the feminist legacy of his predecessor Phoebe Philo – an indictment that he will probably not face for the First Men’s collection in the history of Celine.
Another quieter revolution also takes place on the catwalks of the men, with an ultra-hip gang of streetwear and cult Japanese designers who are welcomed for the first time in the Elite Paris Fold.
Heron Preston, the son of an agent of San Francisco, who has previously taken inspiration by the uniforms of New York Binmen and Street Cleaners, opened the full six -day schedule.
An old friend of both the rapper Kanye West and the broken white Tyro Virgil Abloh, whose first collection of men’s clothing designs for Louis Vuitton has been a huge hit, he is one of a wave of young designers using Streetwear Chicique.
He put his first Paris show in a fake airport terminal full of metal detectors, with at the latest from guards, transport worker uniforms and others who visit “24-hour places”.
He also led the Securitas Three-Dot logo that he adapted to fit his own “style” tag, written in Cyrillic.
Preston, 35, first came to notice alongside Abloh at the Streetwear brand Trill. Just like his friend, he made no secret of his dream to lead a big brand one day, in his case Prada.
Two Japanese fashion -idols also brought a huge shot extra bustling to the traditional calming opening day.
Former Comme des Garcons Stalwart Fumito Ganryu made a very intelligent first Paris Boog with recognized oversized duffle jackets and hoodies that you could imagine, particularly stylish Shinto priests who wore.
His real unisex black suits, some with pants and others with skirts, were just attentive, with Pom-Pom socks that hung over the heel that added a touch of playful fantasy.
Another hero of the Tokyo scene, Takahiro Miyashita, ended the day with a show of “Survival Clothing to get through today’s reality” for his the solo label.
Beyond are the psychedelic colors of his late complained number (s) Ine brand.
Instead, the masked urban fighters of Miyashita wore black and blue and were able to pass for heavily stylized members of the “Black Bloc” handarchist and “Yellow Vesten” demonstrators who regularly clash with the French riot police.
Givenchy also puts their toe in the water with a first men-to-size collection.
All eyes will also be on Abloh in Vuitton and Kim Jones in Dior to see if their second collections in their new houses will go down both and their first.
Messrs Paris shows will be followed next week by the Haute Couture collections, the highlight of the fashion calendar, which only takes place in the French capital.
